Late September 2020 (which turned out to be the coldest for over 20 years in Aviemore)

Glenmore Campsite

Ben Macdui and Cairn Gorm

Around Loch Morlich and Loch an Eilein

Packraft hire on Loch Morlich

Ingleborough again


Off the bike and a fantastic weather forecast, so revisited Ingleborough although this time a linear route from Ribblehead to Horton. It was a Sunday so the trains were few and far between…happily the pub was open, and the waiting room in the station was warm and dry.

Whernside and the Ribblehead viaduct Pen-y-ghent Path up towards Ingleborough Towards Whernside Ingleborough

Top of Ingleborough Top of Ingleborough Top of Ingleborough Top of Ingleborough Top of Ingleborough

Ingleborough Limestone pavement near Horton-in-Ribblesdale Paths in the Yorkshire Dales

Route map

Ingleborough: Hewitt, HuMP, Marilyn, Nuttall; 724 m/2,375 ft

Great Knoutberry and Blea Moor


Another walk from Dent to Ribblehead, this time on the eastern side of the train line.


Following the road up from Dent station I joined the Pennine Bridleway as it follows the contours of Great Knoutberry.  Leaving the track I followed a fence up towards the trig point, from which all three peaks can be seen – visibility was good if a little hazy.  Curlew were disturbed on the way up, although I don’t think it was only me as there was a large bird hovering above.  As well as the trig point at the top there is a also a nice wind shelter; a section of wall with stones protruding as benches on either side.

Great Knoutberry Hill trig point The Three Peaks from Great Knoutberry Hill

Navigation was so easy as to verge on boring but I still almost followed the wrong fence down from the summit.  The correct fence is also the Cumbria/Yorkshire border.  Eventually I met the track at Aysgarth Moss which was a cross roads of bridleways; the west-east track being an old drovers road between dales.  I took the north-south route around Wold Fell which is a restricted byway, although given the more stringent restrictions on the surrounding routes I’m not sure how you could make the most of it.  This is a fine track and I would like to revisit it on a mountain bike.  There were lots of wheatears which were curious but seemed to find rabbits’ burrows a useful shelter when I got too close.

Bridleway Bridleway

The track meets a road for a few hundred metres before continuing around Blea Moor.  I stopped for lunch at the first gate and was visited by a curious weasel – it looked at me as if I was sitting in its way.  After a couple of laps of what is presumably a well-trodden route, followed by discrete surveillance from a patch of reeds the weasel disappeared.  Very quick and difficult to photograph but a lovely moment.


Although following bridleways was easy it had become a little dull so I decided to change my plan and head up to the summit of Blea Moor.  This involved more fence-following and lots of bog-dodging.  A vehicle had been driven over here recently – probably to repair the fence judging by the old rusted sections and new posts and wire – which made tracks to follow.  At the most difficult section I thought I was going to have to use the fence as a bridge but instead found a reasonably clear crossing.  I saw a couple of traps and wondered if they were for the weasel…perhaps it had been threatening the grouse population.  I only saw a couple of grouse, maybe after the 12th most of them have gone.

Trap found on hillside Trig point on Blea Moor

A fence junction was near the trig point of Blea Moor – there are air shafts near but out of sight, over the railway tunnel.  The best way down seemed to be to follow yet another fence – one now fully in Yorkshire.  A bit of bog-dodging was required, and eventually I met the path which follows the railway.  This was the first time I had seen other walkers since I left Dent station.

Trig point on Blea Moor Towards Pen-y-ghent from Blea Moor Ribblehead viaduct

I saw the 3.42 pm train come and go, so was happy that I had a couple of hours before the next one to spend in the Station Inn.  A better back garden is hard to imagine.

Ribblehead viaduct from the pub map of route

9.7 miles, 1,657 ft climbed
Great Knoutberry Hill, 672 m; Marilyn, Hump, Hewitt, Nuttall,
Bleh Moor, 535 m; Hump, Dewey

Wild Boar Fell


After a few days at the parents’ over Easter I travelled back home through the dales, leaving the motorway at Tebay. After finding a campsite I spent the afternoon walking up White Boar Fell.

Howgills From Wild Boar Fell towards the river Eden and Kirkby Stephen Cairn on the path up White Boar Fell Road and train line through the valley looking from the steep edge on White Boar Fell Looking south-ish from White Boar Fell Route taken up White Boar Fell

I could see rain in many directions in the distance but was lucky and missed it.  Snow on the Howgills; I had hoped to walk that way on the next day but it became very wet with low cloud so I made my way home.

Trig point on top of White Boar Fell Rain on the Howell Fells Route of walk on White Boar Fell

8.8 miles

Wild Boar Fell, 708 m; Marilyn, HuMP, Hewitt, Nuttall




Whernside from Dent station, finishing at Ribblehead, staring with a walk along the road beside the little River Dee and the Settle – Carlisle train line.

River Dee, next to the railway line near Dent North entrance to Bleamoor Tunnel Railway line near Dent Head Viaduct

There is a very straight path directly over the Bleamoor tunnel, with several air shafts along the way.

Path towards Blea Moor Air shaft above Bleamoor Tunnel Ingleborough from Blea Moor

Then up to the top of Whernside through a few snow patches.

Whernside Path on Whernside Snow on the path on Whernside Snow on the path on Whernside Looking towards Dentdale from Whernside


Cloud on the top came and went.  We could see Ingleborough with a permanent toupeé.  The wall marks the boundary between Cumbria and North Yorkshire, the trig point is on the Cumbrian side.

Summit of Whernside Summit of Whernside Towards Ingleborough and Ribblehead Viaduct from Whernside Dentdale from Whernside Snow on Whernside Trig point on Whernside Walkers at Trig point on Whernside

After a steep but thankfully not icy descent we walked under the Ribblehead Viaduct just as the light faded and the rain started.

Looking towards Ribblehead Viaduct Whernside ridge, looking south Whernside ridge, looking south Whernside ridge, looking south Sheep and the Ribblehead Viaduct


whern160123_route-elev Whernside route

10.5 miles

Whernside, 763 m; Marilyn, HuMP, Hewitt, Nuttall, County Top (North Yorkshire)



My late night arrival was rather mysterious.  Ennerdale youth hostel is up a one-way forest track, so this looked right.

Track approaching Ennerdale YHA

Saturday morning and the weather was as forecast.  But still better visibility than in the dark.  It’s a lovely hostel; small, out of the way…although we did have some early morning callers after tea bags…

Ennerdale YHA Pillar from Ennerdale YHA


We walked along the track towards Black Sail YHA; great spot, I remember camping near here twenty years ago on a Duke of Ed expedition.  Almost a bothy.  Then it was up Scarth Gap Pass and on to Hay Stacks.

Pillar from Ennerdale Fly Agaric Black Sail Hut Tea break heading up to Scarth Gap Pass Heading up to Scarth Gap Pass Tea break heading up to Scarth Gap Pass Scarth Gap Pass


Fast moving clouds meant that the rain and the views came and went (the rain mostly the former, the views the latter).  It was windy and wet on top, so we had a very quick lunch before heading back down via a couple of tarns, one of them Wainwright’s ‘Innominate’.

Hay Stacks Outdoor Lads on Hay Stacks Buttermere from Hay stacks Heading towards the Innominate Tarn on Hay Stacks Innominate Tarn on Hay Stacks

Strong winds drove the rain straight into our eyes, and new streams appeared on the hillsides as the water found its own way down.  The ground levelled out as we approached Black Sail.  We walked amongst the drumlins that had appeared as little lumps earlier, but now they were significant mounds and seemed rather mystical.

Eventually there was a very welcome drying room, tea, showers, dinner, and fireworks.  The wind and rain were worse on Sunday, so after cleaning the hostel we headed home.

Sparkler and wine Ennerdale YHA Haystacks beer



Route of walk to Hay Stacks, Ennerdale

9.5 miles, 1750 ft/533 m climbed

Hay Stacks; Dewey, Wainwright, 597 m/1959 ft

North York Moors



ODL weekend at Helmsley Youth Hostel.

Arrived on Friday evening, got a top bunk next to a window so woken by a tawny owl in the night.  Saturday’s walk was initially wet, up along Rye Dale then increasingly foggy and windy as we crossed Scrawton Moor.  After pre-lunch pub stop in Wass the cloud lifted and it dried up.  Then along to Ampleforth and back via Sproxton.  Fast paced, led by an ex-Royal Marine.

North York Moors North York Moors Crisp packet North York Moors walk route 24/10/15


Less pleasant nocturnal disruptions on Saturday night included an unwell room-mate, followed by the loud entry of a very drunk one.  A more sedate walk on Sunday up Ash Dale and back down Beck Dale.

North York Moors North York Moors North York Moors North York Moors North York Moors walk route 25/10/15



From Middlesmoor to Scar House Reservoir.

Nidderdale, Gouthwaite Reservoir From possibly a Grouse Butt in Nidderdale Scar House Reservoir

From Dam at Scar House Reservoir Dam at Scar House Reservoir Dam at Scar House Reservoir Scar House Reservoir


Off the track through head-high bracken and lumpy heather to Great Haw, stopping off at this ‘Sportsmans’ Rest (Disused)’.  The boundary stone also marks the edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park (Nidderdale being without).

Abandoned Sportsmans' Rest Abandoned Sportsmans' Rest Abandoned Sportsmans' Rest Moss on Great Haw Boundary stone on Great Haw


Return to Middlesmoor via the Nidderdale Way.  The smoke was a bonfire although there was quite a bit of heather burning elsewhere.

Nidderdale Scar Head Dam, Nidderdale Scar Head Dam, Nidderdale Nidderdale

Buzzard, kite, lots of grouse.  Barn owl before dark and hundreds of gulls on Gouthwaite Reservoir on the drive home.

Nidderdale walk route map

23/08/15 Kinder Scout

A mission to find the highest point, and a bit of map and compass exercise.  We were lucky with the weather, it was clear enough to see that we might actually be at the top (marginally higher than the surrounding moor; perhaps not worth it unless you are a bagger) and the rain held off until we were on the home strait.

Kinder Scout Kinder Scout Kinder Scout Kinder Scout Kinder Scout

Kinder Scout Kinder Scout Kinder Scout

10 miles

Kinder Scout: 636 m, Marilyn, Hewitt, County Top